Clarks - Pie and mash to save some cash

By Hope Claire Levy-Shepherd
Exmouth market. A bustling street representative of the high end consumerism and marvellously chic nature of the 21^st century - packed with trendy bars, luxurious boutiques and colourful fashion stores, it is somewhat difficult to make sense of the excitement one is engulfed in.  Hidden among the vibrancy of the market, however, stands the rather isolated and significantly dated building of Clarks pie and mash - irrefutably one of the last standing embodiments of “traditional East End” in the market today, if not Britain.

Before even ordering a pie or a single jellied eel, I can already understand the undisputed allure of this shop – its simplicity; the cliché of having been ‘transported into another world’ is evident here, with the sturdy wooden booths and tattered “open” sign which have remained unchanged from the 1940’s, giving a real sense of history.  As a listed building, some would even go as far to brand this shop a national treasure.

A famous family-run business and somewhat archaic presence, it is captivating to contemplate what delicious and enthralling treats of a bygone British era lurk inside.  Purely run on the selling of the very Victorian delicacy of pie and mash, one can only wonder how this 60 year old establishment has survived amongst the McDonalds and Subways of the ‘noughties’, let alone the horrifically detrimental impact of the recent Global recession, which saw many similar familial businesses irreconcilably broken. Intrigued as to how this shop has managed to remain the precious and aged jewel that it has become against the stiff competition of modern eateries and delicacies however, I felt compelled to step inside to experience the beauty and atmosphere Clarks for myself.

The smiling face of the head chef, Jenny, greets me at the door. As customers wander in and out for their daily quota of pie, her presence and service really adds to the atmosphere of the shop – despite her light-hearted banter with the local builders who have branded her the “fair lookin’ lady”, she never fails to return to my interview to give me the eagerly anticipated answers I have been waiting for. I immediately ask her the main question that had been racking my mind – “why is Clarks so popular?”- to which she only smiles and points at the modern café across the road, with its generic menu and ghastly metal tables which almost look pitiful against the classic wooden booths of Clarkes. “This place is different. We have history” she says.  This unique sense of loyalty and unity was echoed in the remarks of the customers, many of them regulars, who are not only attracted by the hearty meals provided – the modest prices (“£3.50 for a small pie and mash – what a bargain!”) prove important too, and many seemed repulsed by the pretence of the surrounding modern eateries and bars. I had to try this food for myself.

I must admit, the choice on the menu was hardly amazing, with pie and mash and jellied eels being the predominant foods offered, however the delicious taste of my meal definitely made up for it.  The famous “liquor sauce” poured over the pie, a parsley sauce, is a must and only added to the taste of the pie – Jenny is reluctant to serve meals without it! Looking out of the window whilst enjoying the plate of food before me, I can only be sure that this fantastic eatery will be here for another 60 years.